In the taxi from the airport to the old district of Thamel, Kathmandu warmly welcomed us with overwhelming noise and chaotic traffic: the driver greeted almost every vehicle we passed by with a loud honk; huge muddy holes on the damaged tar forced him to either slow down or take another way; cars, rickshaws, motorbikes and pedestrians skillfully picked their way on the road, regardless of any rules, happily dodging each other and everyone; and last, but not least, cows and dogs mingled with the great chaos, sometimes blocking a whole street or wandering around in packs. This crazy image contrasted wonderfully with the perfectly clean and ordered Hong Kong.

We were back on the road again.

Our friends Guillaume and Marine, a French couple we had met in Indonesia and traveled with for a while, had already arrived in Kathmandu a few days before us, and together, we discovered the follies and beauties of the capital of Nepal. We were there just in time for the festival of Indra Jatra, which marks the end of the monsoon and during which Kathmandu’s living goddess, the Kumari — an actual real little girl! — makes a rare appearance out of her enclosed temple, and we dived into the sea of people that joined the celebration on Durbar Square. On other occasions, when we were more in the mood for a bit of serenity, we were gladly surprised to find a few places in this bustling city where it was possible to enjoy the sights without being disturbed by a honk or a bark. And thanks to the good recommendations of Hoel, Guillaume and Marine’s host who had been living in Kathmandu for almost a year as a French teacher, we were able to follow the locals to the best places to savour some famous Nepalese specialities: momos and lassi.

Needless to say, we were immediately taken in by this city and its charming chaotic vibe.